We have just learned that a rather large weather window is expected to open around the 23rd of May, almost two weeks from today, during which the winds on the summit of Mt. Everest are relatively calm and temperatures steady. This would mean a new opportunity to reach the summit and, since the climbing season ends on May 30th (per our permits from the Nepalese government), this will probably the last such opportunity this season.
Very few mountains are climbed using weather forecasts, especially ones as sophisticated (and expensive!) as those that are used to predict the conditions on Mt. Everest. However, the quality of these forecasts deteriorates significantly after a few days, which is why our team must rely on daily updates from the same weather center that supplies the European Space Agency with predictions that help it set launch dates for shooting satellites into space.
Still, two weeks is a long time to sit around Base Camp and dream about life back home. In order to help pass the time, we were subjected to an extensive scientific experiment by Dr. Richard Birrer, (USN Res.), who is conducting research into the effectiveness of pressurized breathing systems. As part of this, we had oxygen pumped into our lungs, sucked back out again, and had our breathing analyzed. Called HaBiPAP, the experiment is supposedly going to help devise new oxygen delivery systems for climbers. The benefit of having high levels of oxygen pumped into your lungs is that you can see more clearly (things appear to be sharper and more colorful), feel warmer, and, of course, have more energy to move around Base Camp.
We are also planning on going back up to Camp II and then climbing up the Lhotse Face to Camp III in a few days. Last year, on two occasions, we almost slid down part of the Lhotse Face because of several spots of blue ice. This year, the Face is even icier, so we will use extra caution. Particularly, as we just learned of the death of a Russian climber on Lhotse who died during the ascent two days ago.
Aside from this relatively happy news, things remain quite mundane here. Helicopters swoop in daily to collect injured climbers; our Nepali cook, Pemba, continues to crank out a most impressive adaptation of popular western dishes; the expedition members keep fretting over the latest weather news; and plans are hatched for our return to Pittsburgh (obligatory stops at places such as the Strip District’s Pamela’s, Shadyside’s Thai Place and downtown’s India Palace included).
Michael Kobold during the HABiPAP experiment at Everest Base Camp. The ECG showed Kobold's resting heart rate at a low (for 17,500 ft) 86 BPM while his natural oxygen saturation level was an astounding 93%.
This picture should have a caption reading:
“NO MATTER WHAT….YOU WILL NEVER PARTY THIS HARD!!”
Keep it up brother Kobold.
Smitty
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